Diffused -- 1/9/10

I don't think he made it

Date: January 09, 2010
Time: Dawn
Spot(s): PL/Gums
Conditions: Hazy, overcast, funky
Swell: Rising NNW
Surf: 4-6' Haw'n

Winds were sketchy again, variables in the early morning. Swell was a little funky--on the decline, but with a new NNW flow. The sky was hazyand diffused with the sun not quite coming to full strength. Kind of reminded me of San Diego's morning marine layer.

Looked big in the darkness, with some outer reefs feathering. However, by the time we went out to Pipeline, it had dropped significantly.

Gums (to the NE of Pipe) had some dredging rights which I checked out too. Some of the boys were charging the suck ups.

Had one moment of slight panic. Found myself too far in when a north peak snuck up on me. Wave closed out in front of me and I dove under but found that the wave had drawn the water off the reef. I had five feet of depth, with the whitewater rolling all the way to the bottom. I got picked up off the bottom and slammed, knocking my fin off and jarring my camera out of my hand. Twisted my back ever so slightly, but was just fine.

Came out after over three hours of "therapy." Talked story with a nice, slightly older than me couple who wanted to get into surf water photography. Then talked with some good friends about their surf/photo session.

Took over 350 pics, most not so good. But I did get a few nuggets


Aloha from Paradise,