Day Off -- 9/24/10


Date: September 24, 2010
Time: Dawn
Spot(s): Pipeline
Conditions: Getting better
Swell: Still somewhat messy NNW
Surf: 3-5' Haw'n

Words: Had the day off so I headed to the Country for a morning snack. Short-lived swell was already on the decline, but it still packed some power, especially for early season.

Pipe was not quite getting it, but moving over to OTW, it got sketch real fast. Still very nervous from my back bash there almost a year ago.

Got a few, mostly high on the wave face shots. Need to work on my in-the-tube skills. Just gotta get the nerves eased. Welcome winter!


Aloha from Paradise,