Friends -- 9/26/10


Date: September 26, 2010
Time: Dawn
Spot(s): "Pastures"
Conditions: Clean but just a tad slopey
Swell: Cleaner NNW
Surf: 4-8' Haw'n

Words: Size is a relative thing on the North Shore. For me, this was a pretty big swell (for many others, it was only medium). Checked the Beach Park first, but swell was more out of the north. So I headed to the spot that catches it better on that swell angle (I call the place "Pastures").

Surf was pretty solid out there, and many were lining up for 200 yard plus rides. Being on a short leash, I only had time to take pictures so I swam out and enjoyed the view.

When summer comes around, a lot of times we just don't see the same waveriders until the winter kicks up again. Thankfully, winter is coming in early. So it was no surprise that it was a bit of a reunion out there with many friends and just folks we know "by face." Stoked to see everyone so happy, trying to brush the cobwebs off and get back into shape.

Lots of different waveriding devices out there, and mostly locals. Early season is usually pretty mellow--the aggro visitors haven't gotten here yet and the aggro locals are not aggro yet.

Hope you like the captured moments.


Aloha from Paradise,