forerunners -- 11/14/10


Lip and Clouds

Date: November 14, 2010
Time: Morning
Spot(s): Mostly OTW
Conditions: quite messy
Swell: nw swell
Surf: 3-5' Haw'n

Words: Met this bodyboarder named Kevin. He asked if I got any shots of him because he had just gotten back in the water after losing an eye at a Westside spot. I started tripping out. I told him that I saw his wipeout and actually was the one who helped him to shore. He had since gotten married and had a few kids. I was so stoked that he had such a good attitude. Here's the story: Thanks (WSD 2003.2) -- 11/29/03

Anyway... waves started off so small in the morning on Sunday that I actually shot waves lapping on the shore.

 

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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