Freeze Frame (Photos)

PIVOTAL PHOTOS (1 of 5)

I've taken literally thousands of surf photographs in my lifetime. Here are a few milestones in my amateur photography career. (Web space generously provided by Albert Yamane at Kauai Internet.)


Kalapaki, 1980. Dad told me to take his old Pentax SLR with a 50mm lens and fool around with b&w film. Little did he realize that this shot would start me on my obsession to capture the perfect curl.

Running Waters, 1981. My first photo worthy of enlarging. Two major lessons learned with this roll: always use the correct exposure and never use expired film. A pretty good shot nonetheless.

Chocolate rivermouth, circa 1981. Same roll as above. Great composition, mostly by accident. Never saw this place as good ever again.

Johnny Wad, Running Waters, 1981. My first dabbling with water photography. I put the old Pentax in an Ewa Marine bag, and brought it into the lineup. The stupid bag was so frustrating to use, but capturing the unique perspective was worth the hassles.

Running Waters, 1981. Four more views of Running Waters. It really was a shitty wave, but it had its moments.

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