Freeze Frame (Photos)


"Lysols", 1981. A pretty rare wave that has a small swell window. When it goes off, everybody is on it. Muddy water is from the river runoff.

Fantasy Island cove, 1982. Yes, the TV series did shoot here in this secret cove. My friend had access to this private area and we scored one of the most incredibly beautiful sessions I've ever seen. The offshore surf spray was absolutely sparkling, highlighted by the shadows of the cove. Magic! Wrote a story for BIM called "I Like See!".

Ala Moana Bowls, 1984. I heard that the Bowl could get as good as Pipeline, but never believed it until this macking south swell.

Point Panics, 1984. I bodyboarded here almost exclusively for about seven years, until they put up the "No surfing/bodyboarding" sign. This was taken on the same swell as the above photo--one of the biggest swells I've seen on the south.

Point Panics, 1987. Typical day at Panics with the heads of all the bodysurfers set up like pylons. As far as the shot, I just like the anticipation of it all.

| Pivotal 1 | Pivotal 2 | Pivotal 3 | Pivotal 4 | Pivotal 5 |