| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
A Metaphor for Life -- 10/20/97
Surfing has been aptly compared to the game of life. In that context, my family is going through one of our most intense sessions ever.
We have taken off at a spot that we've only tried riding once before. The first time out was an incredible roller-coaster that ended up being one of the most stoking experiences ever.
But this time, the wave was a dark tunnel with no chance of coming through. It initially looked sketchy, but makeable. However, once we dropped in, the wave just closed out mercilessly. There was no choice but to pull in, duck through, and try and survive the tumble.
The key, in life as in surfing, is to always paddle back out and try again. Every time you paddle out, every time you catch a wave, you learn a little bit more about the environment, about yourself, about life.
Unfortunately for us, we will never be dropping into this particular lineup (in the game of life) again. But you can be sure, there will be other places to challenge, other waves to catch, other swells to look forward to.
Aloha from Paradise,