SURF OBSERVATIONS
Short Story -- 10/26/97


Jerry, charging

Who: Jerry and I
What: bodyboarded
Where: North Shore
When: between swells

Weather was marginal, with some rain squalls. Surf in the 2-4' feet range, mostly from the north. Rode Off-the-Wall and Insanities only. Long waits, growing crowds, but decent waves. I got cold really quickly. Jerr and I traded off time behind camera. He's pushing himself more and more. For some reason, I just couldn't get into the session. Ended up sitting on the beach in the rain. Went home, had lunch with the wife and family, felt whole again.

If a picture is worth a thousand words, how much are six worth? Enjoy.


Insanities was in fine form


Jerry again, in good trim


That's me, T-minus 4 seconds before launch time


Me again, showing off my "sweet okole"


Somewhere in there is Jerry, pushing himself over the ledge.
He got in the barrel, then got donuts (not Krispy Kremes).
Soft focus by me--it was raining, I was cold...

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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