| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Chaos Theory -- 11/23/97
Once in the lineup, we found that there actually were things to play with. The stormy water would sometimes give way to a nice wall to trim on, or a ramp to launch off. There were even a few rogue five footers (Haw'n) pumping the adrenaline of everyone caught inside. As my bud Joel would say, there were a few nuggets to be had.
Because of the conditions, the crowd was initially very light. I find that I catch just as many waves in an empty lineup (waiting for the good ones) than I do in a moderately crowded one. Isn't it ironic, don't 'cha think?
Ivan did his usual dropknee thang, pumping and slashing on his new board. As a matter of fact, everytime I see him, he has a new board. Yikes Bodyboards must be taking good care of him. He cheered me into doing some pitiful dropknee poses of my own--all in fun.
About mid-session, I found myself jockeying for a set wave with a surfer. I was dead set on going left, but when the surfer swung around and headed right, for some reason, my mind clicked into some idiotic antagonistic mode. I went right just out of spite, making him pull back as I went under him. The ride turned out to be nothing but a short closeout. Of course, the ensuing set caught me inside for about ten minutes while empty boomers peeled enticingly on the outside. Bad karma for my bad attitude.
Paddling against the current (or more likely blown by the wind), along with getting caught inside a lot provided for me an excellent workout. Too bad we couldn't have gotten better waves, but you can't ask for everything. Came out of the water fully "salinated" and satiated.
Oh, and about the chaos theory? (check Chaos Theory and Making Order Out of Chaos, not Jurassic Park, The Movie) Well, I'm not too well-versed in it, but the basic concept is that you can find order in disorder; or in my context, a clean wave on a blownout day. Apropos, don't 'cha think?
Aloha from Paradise,