| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Pushing the Envelope -- 12/23/97
On Monday, a huge WNW swell boomed on the North Shore, bringing in sets as high as 18' (Haw'n). The swell was to be fairly short-lived and expected to diminish by Tuesday. Coincidentally, I had Tuesday off!
After suiting (and psyching) up, we following some other spongers through the shorebreak. Thereís always a bit of apprehension jumping into the sweeping lateral rip, but punching through turned out to be pretty easy.
Jerry chose to sit in the channel, and picked a few shoulders off. But the crowd was pretty aggressive so he went in early, taking pictures for the remainder of the time. Give the boy points for just getting out there.
As for me, I initially tried sitting at the main Pipeline peak, jockeying with the rest of the pack. However, with bodyboarders like Tamega, Ronquilio, MacKenzie and Vieira out, I didn't stand a chance.
So I decided to sit the furthest west and wait for peaks of my own. To my pleasant surprise, I found that some waves at Backdoor and even Off-The-Wall (OTW) lefts were rideable. For the most part, the sets closed out from Insanities all the way thru Pipeline; but if you were patient and lucky, you could snag a few smaller ones in between, and paddle back before the next set nailed you.
Right off the bat, I remember catching a really good one. A surfer and a bodyboarder were jockeying for the left at Pipeline, and after a millisecond of hesitation, I pushed myself over the edge to go right. I thought I was going to do a short freefall, but the wave kind of burped and let me drop in smoothly--probably from a little backwash. I gathered myself and pulled into a good trim, then got a clean, casual coverup, feeling the decompressive "whump" from behind. Coming out, I slowly edged my way out and over the face, and kicked out just as the section closed. (big grin)
The crowd eventually ballooned to about 40 people, mostly bodyboarders. It's pretty neat that once "The Show" (ASP) leaves town, the bodyboarders kind of take over Pipeline in prep for their men's and women's world championships. There is a noticeable transition in the lineup; like a changing of the guards.
Paddling back out from a small Backdoor ride, I was mesmerized by this wave that just barreled left from OTW. It was just a full-on pitching cylinder that funneled endlessly. Had to raise my hands in a high "Y" mock claimage as I ducked through. Since Backdoor started getting busy too, I decided to take my chances solo looking for one like that.
Although OTW was closing out 95% of the time, there was an occasional makeable peak. That wave was so alluring that I had to at least try--if nothing else, just to get away from the crowd. I ended up spending a lot of time just dodging closeout sets, but I did manage to dial into a sweet one.
Came in after about three hours of water time, fully stoked on the session. Although I didnít catch any real set waves, I still felt a bit of accomplishment just participating in the big conditions. And I know that I pushed my personal envelope of wave riding just a small notch higher.
Aloha from Paradise,