| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
A Quickie -- 3/11/98
Surf was 3-6' at the Beach Park, with excellent conditions. Pipe was pinching a bit from the westerly direction, but Backdoor was starting to look good with a nice concave swing to it.
I paddled out with legendary bodyboarder Daniel "Boogieman" Kaimi, who still rips after all these years. The numbers in the lineup grew quickly as people found out how manageable it was.
Although I caught a few good ones, I didn't catch any of the sets. The crowd had me stressing by 7:15 AM, so I bailed soon afterwards. I was frustrated, but happy that I at least got wet.
Talked story with Bernie Baker in the Park, who said it was pretty epic the day before, with 12' sets bombing through on occasion. "Too big for me," I said.
A HUGE swell is on tap for Friday (3/13/98). I'll be safely tucked away in my office cubicle, working on code, reading Dilbert cartoons and, like any other red-blooded American male, dreaming of future quickies to come.
Aloha from Paradise,