| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
The Slide -- 5/17/98
A rare two-surf weekend for me. Unfortunately, the surf failed to cooperate.
Jerry and I dawned it once again; this time to Suicides. Surf was a bit smaller and windier than the previous day. But we had the place pretty much all to ourselves; which gave us some extra creative license to have some fun.
Jerr is still a novice on the surfboard, so he did a lot of proning before scrambling up backside. But you can see his progressive improvement in takeoff and riding technique. It won’t be long before he starts shredding.
Me, just call me style guy. Sidewalk shuffle, hood ornament posing, hands to the sky or behind the back. No "real" maneuvers, just enjoying the feel of the waves.
I remember watching old footage of Waikiki, where the boys would just stand upright and ride, no break in trim at all. I always wondered what was the big deal. However, after one wave where I did absolutely nothing, I realized that they (as I) just enjoyed the sensation of unaided motion. It was all about the slide.
One guy comes out to join us. He respectfully acknowledged our punctuality by starting on the inside, then working his way to where we were on the outside. Before we knew it, he was gone--must've been a family man with limited time on his hands (I can empathize).
Out of the water at 8:00 AM, logging three hours of wetness. After two days in a row of surf, the shoulder burn was prominent, but not intense. It was a good weekend.
Aloha from Paradise,