| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Pre-Work Out -- 8/28/98
I had a busy weekend ahead, so I decided to take some time off in the morning on Friday to catch a few. It just so happened that a new swell was to peak on that same day--what a coincidence!
Makani couldn’t make it, but Buddy freed up his morning to dawn it with me. He picked me up early, and after getting detained a bit, we checked out Q-Tips, our new secret spot.
Did I say secret spot? Maybe not. It was before dawn and there already were five cars in the parking lot, with surfers already striding to the beach. Doesn’t anyone work around here?
The surf looked smaller than our previous session, but conditions were better, with a light side/offshore breeze buffeting the waves. Surf was maybe two to an occasional four foot (Haw'n), with pretty good direction. On it!
Buddy, making a late drop
Buddy surfed the day before at a nearby mediocre spot, and accidentally popped his knee big-time. He seriously thought that his weekend was shot, but felt good enough to surf, especially after some Naproxin. You’d never guess it by the way he surfed--still full-on charging and ripping. Saw one wave of his where he took off pretty late and air dropped a couple of feet. He landed softly and just bottom-turned as if nothing happened. Guess the knee was alright.
As for myself, I caught some really fun ones on my tank. Again, I mostly focused on trimming on the long walls, enjoying the glide. On one especially sweet wall aiming right into the morning sun, I just had to raise both hands and yell out in pure stoke.
Of course, it wasn’t all peaches and cream. Same story, different day. I was at the peak alone again when a set came through. Had to go. Thought I had it this time, but the wave jacked, making me lose my balance away from the wave direction. I teetered on the brink, but just managed to catch myself before wiping out. However by that time, the wall was way down the line as I was caught in the whitewater. Kicked my board out and unceremoniously went down with the ship.
Then I got caught inside... again. Between dunks, I once again saw Buddy pull into a sweet one. He actually made it out, but got shut down on the ensuing section.
I got caught many times after that, turning turtle more times than I’d like to remember. One time, the wave caught my board and ripped it from my grasp, pulling back a couple of fingernails with it. Auwe! At least I got a few nice ones between rinse cycles.
We came in just as the conditions deteriorated and diminished--by then, I had to hit the road anyway.
When I finally got to work, I had this calm about me that’s hard to describe. Centered, relaxed, ready for another day of stress. Wouldn’t it be nice to start every work day like that?
Doesn't look too good from shore, does it Buddy?
Aloha from Paradise,