Good Enough -- 9/27/98

Big move on a small wave

Dismal swell forecast for Sunday, so we decided to hit the almost always surfable Diamond Head. As expected, all we got was some chest-high windslop.

Buddy still ripped on his 6' 3", I flailed on my tank, and Makani apparently slept in. Despite the poor conditions, we made the most of it, catching some fun shoulders.

My highlight of the day was an inadvertent and unsuccessful aerial cutback. Planted my rear foot right too far back and hit a chop mid-turn. Must've looked pretty silly.

Anyway, we pushed the session almost three hours--usually that's my only exercise for the week, so I had to make the most of it. At least it was good enough to get wet.

Aloha from Paradise, (where it's not always double-overhead barrels)