SURF OBSERVATIONS
Turning Turtle -- 11/28/98


"honu"

Dawned it to the North Shore. Surf was between swells, so it was small--2-3 feet (Haw'n) with some bigger ones early in the morn. The sandbar area wasnít really happening, so we went back to Laniakea to bodyboard.

As the morning progressed, the crowd got pretty nasty, with a lot of the North Shore wannabes (myself included) charging the small surf. I eventually moved over to Holtons for some solo action, and ended up catching a big, open-faced left, getting in a good carve--my wave of the day.

Ben Aipa came out riding this pristine 9'6" tank. He confirmed Buddy's report that it was best two days ago--double overhead and reeling on Thanksgiving's Day. Oh well, maybe visiting alt.surfer Gamivia Duke scored some.

Just like our last sesh, we had another turtle encounter. This good-sized turtle popped up from the bottom and started cruising on the surface, not three feet away from me. It looked like he had some sort of vision problem--they are usually not approachable. It looked like he had a cataract in his eye, but Iím not familiar with that sort of thing. He finally felt my presence and dove back down.

Eventually, the crowd got so ridiculous, I just tried to catch a tiny one in. Paddled into this chest-high wave, and this aggro Vince Klein lookalike tried dropping in on me. Sorry bro, not all bodyboarders just roll over and submit. I "nudged" him out of the wave, and rode the whitewater to shore.

Pretty lousy sesh, but better than nothing.

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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