| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Back 2 Stinky's - 12/29/98
On the 11th hour, I got the blessing from my beautiful wife to go out surfing. Buddy and Rich were hoping that conditions would be right for the fickle Stinky's, the spot where my tanker got lacerated (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/sesh/new/182.htm).
I drove out ahead to check out the action. Just didn't look quite right. Stinky's looked relatively flat in the morning, Makaha was mushing out with better lefts, and Tent's was mushy and sectiony.
Calling Buddy via cell (technology is great, ain't it), we decided to check Stinky's again-"At least got some lips to bash," said Rich.
Pulling into to the parking lot, we were stoked to find empty, clean swells inconsistently marching in. It wasn't big at all, but conditions were primo. We were on it!
It was about as glassy as it gets in Hawaii, with smooth peaks walling up. The wave was a cakewalk: take off on the peak, swoop in, then position for the hook.
I got a couple of really nice, deep tubes that allowed me to inspect the ceiling and walls before exiting cleanly. Wheee!
Rich and Buddy were both killing it, despite having their long 7'0" boards. These guys can do some major snaps-just full-on fans on the lined-up rights.
Better hurry up, Rich...
Throughout the session, we had to keep constant vigil over our cars. There were more than a few people "checking out" our vehicles, so we had to make sure they knew we were watching.
One odd thing was that no one else paddled out. There were several others who checked the spot, but no one came in. Guess it wasn't good enough for them. Fine by me!
I had to bail early, so by 8:30 AM, I was out of the water. I asked Buddy if it got better after I left, and he admitted that it did. Was I bummed? A little. But I knew that if I had stayed, the waves probably would not have gotten better.
At least I got my chance to charge Stinky's once again.
Buddy, standing in the light
P.S. Also check out Buddy's session report with great pics.
Aloha from Paradise,