| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
One-O-Five -- 1/6/99
After a marathon meeting at work, my health spiraled downard into oblivion. A flu had hit me so hard that I just had to go home and recupe.
I tried getting some rest, but my temperature suddenly started rising. Drank lots of cold water--didn't help; turned on the air conditioner--still hot; put wet towels on my head--no difference. By then, my temperature was soaring at one-hundred and five degrees. Had to do something drastic.
I filled my tub with cold water, and gingerly slipped in. Two things immediately crossed my mind. First, it was damned cold! I thought about how lucky I was to live in Hawaii, where cold water is 70 degrees. I donít know how dedicated to the sport I would be if I had to don a wetsuit on every go-out.
However, the other thing that dominated my thoughts was my own mortality. Suddenly, I didnít feel so indestructible. Itís funny how some things become lucidly clear during moments of delirium. Some things did not seem so important anymore, if you know what I mean.
Fortunately, I started feeling better the next day. Unfortunately, both my wife and daughter have the bug now. Itís time for me to take care of them. The North Shore is 20 feet, weather's nice. But I'm not thinking about it at all. All I'm concerned with is comforting my family, and making sure they don't hit 105 either.
Aloha from Paradise,