SURF OBSERVATIONS
Windswell -- 4/24/99


no surf pics; just a nice sunrise

Decided to switch my surf day to Saturday in the hopes of taking advantage of a small south. I planned on using my brand-spanking USED borrowed longboard: a 9' 0" Jay Richardson Local Motion tanker. Figured Diamond Head should at least have something.

Met up with Buddy and Makani out at Lighthouse. The south was just about nonexistent, forcing us to ride a piddly tradewind swell. Waves were mostly waist-high, with a few bigger ones, but pretty crappy with the moderate winds.

My borrowed board worked fairly well. It has a longer trailing fin (about 12") that seemed to provide more drive off the bottom. Definitely gave me more stability without too much loss in (my pathetic) maneuverability.

Buddy was having one of those disenchanting days, and decided to go in real early. Makani and I toughed it out, hoping for some improvement--there was none.

Later in the sesh, ASP WCT pro surfer and fellow Kauaian Kaipo Jaquias paddled out and quietly started shredding. I guess you really could ride well that day, if you had the skills. We all talked story a little bit before bailing.

It was a very forgettable session, but I wasn’t complaining. The sun was out, the water was warm, and friends were sharing a not-too-crowded lineup. Windswell is better than no-swell.

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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