| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Crowded Sunday -- 7/18/99
Couldn't do the regular dawn patrol, so instead opted for an afternoon sesh. As usual, Buddy was accommodating, and we got a surprise guest in fellow sponger Justin.
There was only a tiny south in Town, so we decided to check the windward side since it had been blowing strong for a couple of days. P-Rock was the call.
The waves were surprisingly decent--overhead and onshore, with some pitching lips over the sandbar. The only bad thing was the crowd--it was unbelievably packed in this usually empty lineup. Didn't deter us, though. We were out there!
We settled over the sandbar, where Buddy scored some long ones going right. The waves lined up pretty good and afforded him more than enough room to play on. Of course, he didn't think he did that well.
On one, I saw him casually take a late drop on a head-high dredger. When he reached the trough, he gathered himself, wiping the water from his face, fixed his hair and adjusted his shorts. He then proceeded to bank a small bottom turn and started to crouch and pump down the line. As I paddled over the shoulder, I couldn’t help but notice how good the lighting was, and was surprised at how clean the moment looked in all the chaos. Buddy said that wave wasn't so hot, but I thought otherwise.
Despite the aggro crowd, Justin was faring well, getting slotted on more than a few occasions. I think he settled into a decent rhythm, catching quite a few in the beginning. Saw him throw a nice reverse-360 on the shoulder.
As for me, I was my usual "assertive" self. I favored sitting outside of everyone and tried to pick off the bigger ones. The windswell was a challenge to read, but you could dial into some nice walls and even some tubes.
Wave of the day for me was a sweet left that just dredged as I took off. I remember setting my rail, and watched as a surfer paddled over the shoulder with a big grin as the wave threw over me. Traveled for a second or three before it shut down.
After a couple hours, the waves started to ease off, so we decided to bail. This was by far the biggest crowd we surfed with for a long time. Still managed to make the most of it.
Aloha from Paradise,