| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Tom #2 in San Diego -- 7/27/99
Predawn patrol again. Tom Tweed arrived and we shot the breeze for awhile. More and more people arrived, and Tom seemed to know just about everyone.
To our surprise, Tom Keener (also of alt.surfing fame) pulled in. We were planning to hook up in the late afternoon, but I guess he woke up early.
Tom K. sported a Santa Claus beard, but was trim and fit, vice being a "jolly old gent."
Finally after shooting the breeze and studying the wishy washy waves, Tom T's friend, Bill Andrews, decided to go out. I just was itching to partake too, so I jumped at the opportunity.
Tom T. generously offered me his tank to play with. I was so stoked to give it a try. Tom decided to sit back until I finished. I quickly paddled out, with Tom Keener (who regularly body surfs) on my tail on a bodyboard.
Surf was still decent-sized, 2-4'+ (Cal scale), pretty glassy with a slight onshore flow. We were pleasantly surprised to find Ron already in the lineup, catching some good rights with his tank.
Tom T's board really worked for me. Got one really good ride, turning and walking the board the board all the way to shore.
Tom K. felt like a fish out of water, so to speak, in the lineup. However, he gamely worked the lineup on the inside. In fact...
...On my last wave, I precariously snagged a set wave. The right walled up quickly, and Tom K was right in my intended path. I think we both had that "I'll zig, you zag" thing. Rather than aggressively go for the wall, I decided to go around Tom.
Unfortunately, I came around him much too close for comfort. He turned his board as I passed by as I yelled in earnest, "Sorry Tom!" The wave did not afford more opportunities, so I straightened out and rode to shore.
I thanked Tom T. for the use of his great board--a Tudor replica--then hurriedly got ready to leave. However, in my haste, I stupidly locked my keys in the car. Fark!
A few frantic minutes ensued, as my classtime drew nearer and nearer. All options were thrown out: hangers, police, AAA. Finally, Tom offered to drive to his home and get a hanger. But then, I noticed that the keyless keychain in my hand had a remote trunk opener. Unreal!
Got to class early. Was so stoked to have longboarded the place. Looking forward to the afternoon sesh with Tom K.
Postscript: In the afternoon, the waves were smallish, and I was burned out from the other sessions. Tom K. and I decided to take it easy and just talked story for a couple of hours. Really pleasant chat. Wished we could’ve tried out Boomers and Casas--maybe next time.
Aloha from La Jolla,