| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Better than Adequate -- 9/7/99
One more swell was expected. Buddy and I once again went to Q-Tips in search of the elusive good south of the summer.
With a pretty empty lineup, the big sets were about five feet Haw’n, but it was inconsistent and the winds were once again clocking in at around 25 mph.
Buddy surfed hard again, dialing into this nice tube ride, hooting inside and throwing some major echo in the chamber. He was on it, as usual, just doing these big carves and positioning himself in the hook.
On another wave, a longboarder dropped in on him, so after a long trim, Buddy carved down, then hit the lip right over the guy. Beautiful backlit spray just blew everywhere, just so pretty from my vantage point in the channel. Of course, Buddy bailed rather than land on him, and the longboarder rode the rest of the wave in, oblivious to it all.
I had another rather frustrating session. Caught one really big one that had a good drop. Did some small-kine S-turns on some others. Other than that, I played Mr. Buoy, waiting for what seemed like forever for waves.
When we finally came in after 3.5 hours, I expressed my frustration to Buddy. He reminded me that we caught some pretty solid waves and for the most part had it all to ourselves. Yeah, I guess it really was a pretty good session after all.
Aloha from Paradise,