Positive Vibes -- 10/10/99

Unknown at Lani's

Dawned it to Laniakea with Buddy. Surf was on the way down, but still overhead, albeit a bit inconsistent.

The ravenous early-season crowd was out en force, even early in the morn. The good thing was that despite the lineup traffic, everyone was quite respectful of everyone else. If you took off deep, you got the wave--simple as that.

Buddy was doing his typical thing, easily handling the crowd and getting some great waves. Even caught a few all the way through.

Me, I was again kooking on my tank. Don’t know if it was the dwindling swell, or the aggressive crowd. I shouldn’t blame outside forces, though (well, maybe I was using the wrong temperature wax). :-)

Still managed to get a few good ones, including this glassy, slightly overhead wall that I just got mesmerized riding. It was just a smooth wave that stood up down the line forever. Although it closed out after about 30 yards, it was still a keeper.

Coming out of the water, I still felt a bit unsatisfied. Spoiled? Well maybe. But I knew bigger and better days were to come.

Aloha from Paradise,