SURF OBSERVATIONS
Stray Memories -- 11/7/99


Buddy, taking advantage of a small north peak
Also check out Buddy's pics.

The chances of swell was fair at best. Didnít matter because this weekend warrior was going no matter what. Hereís my memories of the sesh:

--Conditions were funky, with a dying NW swell and a slowly rising N swell. It was inconsistent, but the sets were overhead in size. The firm sideshores created a slight wind chop and blew rain squalls intermittently across the shoreline.

--When I first saw the conditions at Pipe/OTW, I really thought it would be a throwaway session. The sandbars werenít developed properly, and the waves just curled erratically in the darkness.

--Pulled into a nice pit on my second wave and got bounced off my bodyboard by the shockwave mid-barrel. That moment of weightlessness while the tube is shutting down is simultaneously exciting and disconcerting.

--Stared into the womb of a grinding pit as I paddled back out and punched through. That puppy threw much farther than it was high.

--Saw Makani stall nicely on an overhead wave at Pipe, with the lip throwing over him. The wave curved concave as a second section started pitching ahead of him. He made it out, of course.

--Saw Buddy take off late backside on a wedgy peak. Held on by his toenails and made the drop, of course, then carved up the inside.

--On one of my closeout wipeouts, I curled my body as I rolled with the whitewater. Suddenly, the back of my head ever-so lightly grazed the reef bottom. Subtle reminder that we do play with fire.

--Caught a sweet right at Backdoor. Did a late takeoff, then accidentally did a small bunny-hop off a chop, all the while smiling at Buddy who was paddling back out on the shoulder. Rode the barrel for good distance, but just missed coming out of the froth.

--Last wave was excellent! Took off on a nice peak straight out of the north, and raced the wall without breaking trim. Made it through two hollow sections (verandas) before getting deposited on the shore at OTW.

--Walking back to the showers at the Beach Park, I saw a set rear up outside. I yelled, "Outside, outside!" but only Buddy and Makani could make it over. The rest of the lineup got cleaned by the double-overhead set.

Driving home, I realized that I really had a great time. All the stray memories combined to make a pretty righteous session after all.

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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