| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Stray Memories -- 11/7/99
The chances of swell was fair at best. Didnít matter because this weekend warrior was going no matter what. Hereís my memories of the sesh:
--Conditions were funky, with a dying NW swell and a slowly rising N swell. It was inconsistent, but the sets were overhead in size. The firm sideshores created a slight wind chop and blew rain squalls intermittently across the shoreline.
--When I first saw the conditions at Pipe/OTW, I really thought it would be a throwaway session. The sandbars werenít developed properly, and the waves just curled erratically in the darkness.
--Pulled into a nice pit on my second wave and got bounced off my bodyboard by the shockwave mid-barrel. That moment of weightlessness while the tube is shutting down is simultaneously exciting and disconcerting.
--Stared into the womb of a grinding pit as I paddled back out and punched through. That puppy threw much farther than it was high.
--Saw Makani stall nicely on an overhead wave at Pipe, with the lip throwing over him. The wave curved concave as a second section started pitching ahead of him. He made it out, of course.
--Saw Buddy take off late backside on a wedgy peak. Held on by his toenails and made the drop, of course, then carved up the inside.
--On one of my closeout wipeouts, I curled my body as I rolled with the whitewater. Suddenly, the back of my head ever-so lightly grazed the reef bottom. Subtle reminder that we do play with fire.
--Caught a sweet right at Backdoor. Did a late takeoff, then accidentally did a small bunny-hop off a chop, all the while smiling at Buddy who was paddling back out on the shoulder. Rode the barrel for good distance, but just missed coming out of the froth.
--Last wave was excellent! Took off on a nice peak straight out of the north, and raced the wall without breaking trim. Made it through two hollow sections (verandas) before getting deposited on the shore at OTW.
--Walking back to the showers at the Beach Park, I saw a set rear up outside. I yelled, "Outside, outside!" but only Buddy and Makani could make it over. The rest of the lineup got cleaned by the double-overhead set.
Driving home, I realized that I really had a great time. All the stray memories combined to make a pretty righteous session after all.
Aloha from Paradise,