| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Futting Around -- 4/15/00
Small waves everywhere were in the forecast--time to hit Diamond Head. For the first time in a long time, our whole crew hit it together.
Surf was about shoulder-high at best. The wind was quite firm, but there were moments of glassiness that made it decent.
Decided to fool around on my big "bullyboard," which turned out to be a gas to ride. I started releasing the rail on turns, sliding out sideways. And for some reason, the board was really easy to tag rollos with. Guess the greater surface area slowed the board, putting me in good position to stall for a lip bash.
The resin-riders were killing it, as usual, making the surf look totally rippable. Buddy, Rich and Makani were making big gouges, going both right and left at Lighthouses. Of course, the jawing and joking between sets were hilarious.
Nothing super special. Just a fun session among friends.
Aloha from Paradise,