| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Good Release -- 6/29/00
Ultra rough week at work. I had to release.
Despite my heavy workload, I could no longer operate. The forecasted swell made it doubly hard to concentrate anyway. So Buddy and I planned a morning run.
After I dropped off my daughter at school, I picked up Buddy and headed west. Spot after spot wasn't showing. But we had faith, and kept driving west, eventually settling for the spot we scored at last week. Even though the surf wasn't as big as expected, it was still a total blast.
It was about head-high, with some bigger ones--mostly smaller ones--and good conditions. Best part about it was that we were the only ones there, for the moment.
The sun was out, and the lefts lined up for a hundred yards plus at times. It was just... *fun*!
All too soon, a lone surfer jumped in the water with us. Came to find out it was Buddy's friend from young kid time. He hung out with us for a while, but moved on after only a half-hour or so. Guess it wasn't consistent enough for him.
Buddy was his usual self, carving up the place. He had good waves, bad waves, and the wave of the day. Business as usual.
Me, I was trying to make the most of it. Just trying to go as far as I could. I took two easily 150 yards, where I scrambled up on the sharp rocks and ran back out to the point.
Unfortunately, a couple other guys caught wind of our gig and jumped in the lineup with us. They proceeded to shoulder-hop a few waves, but were for the most part nice guys.
Eventually, it was time to get back to the real world. Work called. Surf was dwindling anyway. All in all, it was a good release.
Aloha from Paradise,