| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Friends -- 7/8/00
Surf was expected to be terrible. No south swell to speak of at all. Just windswell.
We decided to once again hit Lighthouse for two reasons: it was another Diamond Head day and a friend was going to be there... at least one.
Another alt.surfer was in town. Luis Mejia came down to compete in the United States Amateur Surfing Championship, and Buddy set up a practice session for him.
Lighthouse was small, but was especially feisty, with strong winds and a stronger current. Some pretty solid waves came through, if you were in position and patient enough.
My new longboard worked great for me, with good turning and even the ability to walk the board. Caught some meaty ones, not much more than head-high, but still fun as hell.
Luis (aka Lou) was stoked to be in the islands for the competition. We were glad to offer him some company during his practice time. Conditions were challenging for someone unfamiliar with the setup, but Lou fared well, catching some long rights.
Of course, my friends Buddy and Rich were nailing some good ones. Rich was milking it for what it was worth since he was going back on duty the next day. The brothers Williams still rip.
But the surprise of the day was yet to come. Halfway through the session, I noticed this woman bodyboarder making her way out towards us. I immediately recognized her as Mama Sus, another local alt.surfer. I was so stoked to see her after not seeing her for so long.
She was charging hard, and showed a marked improvement in strength and style. And of course, her wit made me laugh out loud. We babbled on about the group and our latest surf encounters. Really nice to catch up with her life.
After four hours of brutal workout, it was time to leave. It was neat that we met a new friend, but exceptionally cool that we got to surf with an old one.
Aloha from Paradise,