| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Not my Day -- 8/6/00
Did a recon to Diamond Head--flat!
Picked up Buddy and drove to our eastside secret spot. It was small, but clean. Buddy jumped in the water while I took some pics. During Buddy's first ride, I was told by "security" to leave. Rather than push it, I called in Buddy and we packed up and grudgingly moved down the coast.
This spot was bigger, but conditions were way poorer and mushy. It would have to do.
A few minutes into the session, Buddy got stung by a Portuguese Man-O-War. However, Buddy fared pretty well in his surfing, getting a few workable waves.
I, on the other hand was flailing. My longboard and my skill level couldn't handle the short period chop. The board pearled again and again as I couldn't master the takeoff. Even got bumped hard on my head from my board. Came in after a couple of hours.
Although it was not my day, was I complaining? Nope. I got wet; I got some exercise; I got to surf. Life is good!
Aloha from Paradise,