| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Bachi -- 8/21/00
bachi. Japanese word absorbed into the local Hawaiian dialect meaning a divine curse incurred as moral retribution.
The big swell arrived a day late. The previous day's miss out on good surf had me drooling to get wet and try. But it was a workday. Dilemma.
Dammit, I worked hard enough. It was time to leave after putting in a solid seven hours and 59 minutes.
Headed west once again in search of the good stuff at our new secret spot. Arrived just after Buddy and Makani. Surf still wasn't really happening, but we went for it anyway.
From there, it turned into a near-complete badluck session.
1. Timed my jump off the jagged reef poorly, and ended up dinging my new board quite a bit. Sick!
Gotta admit though, it wasn't all bad. I got my share of good waves. Not many turns, though. More like tiptoe on the takeoff backside, then look for a straight line to Kaena Point.
Driving back home, I got a much better view of the damage on my board. It was pretty bad, with puncture marks and a crushed rail. Sigh. Must be "bachi" for leaving work "early."
Aloha from Paradise,