Buddy on a steep one
Also check out Buddy's pics.

bachi. Japanese word absorbed into the local Hawaiian dialect meaning a divine curse incurred as moral retribution.

The big swell arrived a day late. The previous day's miss out on good surf had me drooling to get wet and try. But it was a workday. Dilemma.

Dammit, I worked hard enough. It was time to leave after putting in a solid seven hours and 59 minutes.

Headed west once again in search of the good stuff at our new secret spot. Arrived just after Buddy and Makani. Surf still wasn't really happening, but we went for it anyway.

From there, it turned into a near-complete badluck session.

1. Timed my jump off the jagged reef poorly, and ended up dinging my new board quite a bit. Sick!
2. Sat on the shoulder with my tank while Makani and Buddy sat super deep on the inside, snagging some sketchy walls.
3. Had a really hard time taking off backside on the racy walls.
4. One hour into the session, Buddy noticed a car parked next to mine with its door open towards mine--classic break-in scenario. I had to bail early anyway, so I decided to head in. Paddled 300 yards down the beach to a not-quite-as-sketchy reefy exit point and ran back to my car, only to find a couple cleaning their car next to mine.
5. Of course, the surf got better and better, and I could only watch while Buddy and Makani traded waves all by their lonesome.

Gotta admit though, it wasn't all bad. I got my share of good waves. Not many turns, though. More like tiptoe on the takeoff backside, then look for a straight line to Kaena Point.

Driving back home, I got a much better view of the damage on my board. It was pretty bad, with puncture marks and a crushed rail. Sigh. Must be "bachi" for leaving work "early."

Buddy, snapping

Makani, enjoying the arvo sesh

Buddy, following suit

Aloha from Paradise,

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