O for 2 -- 9/24/00
I once again headed out to the North Shore, intent on reacquainting myself with North Shore power. Again, the surf was expected to rise big time. And again, it didn't show in time.
Since I knew this time that the surf would not come up, I decided to ride my longboard just for fun. So I jumped into the tiny Pipe lineup and fooled around in the waist-chest high surf.
This time, I was hooking up with coworker and bodyboarder Justin, whom I've surfed with in the past. Bucking his late internal timer, Justin came out real early to share the surf.
The surf must've looked halfway decent from shore because throngs of bodyboarders filled the small lineup. Of course, me sitting deep on my tank made me feel like the grumpy old fart of the lineup.
Justin and I made the most of it, catching few small ones here and there. But a lot of our time was spent just talking story in the lineup. It actually was pretty funny, with us discussing the virtues of ATM vs. GigE, work relationships, family cars and the like. Just about everyone else in the water was probably high school age or less, which further made me feel like the aging rider I am.
Anyway, I managed to steal some tiny nuggets, including a cute Backdoor pocket which I proceeded to stall and do a crouching, cheater-fivish pose.
Later I went to Laniakea and found some small ones amongst a fairly mellow local crowd. Nothing spectacular at all--just some short walls.
It wasn't the best of sessions, but it was still really fun.
I was now O for 2 in my quest for catching some big stuff. Maybe next time...
Aloha from Paradise,