The Real Thing -- 10/8/00
After my freshwater foray, I got a chance to savor the real thing. Surf all over the island was small so it another Diamond Head day.
Because of firm tradewinds coupled with a tiny New Zealand pulse, the surf was actually pretty fun. Even though the waves were coming in at an acute angle, if you picked off the right one, it wedged nicely, affording some juicy sections.
I caught some really sweet ones with my longboard, including a couple of verandas and nice double-ups.
Talked board design theory with this regular who was also riding an Aipa board, only thing his was a hybrid stinger. We both agreed that Ben's boards are worth their extra cost.
Got the salty eye burn from the gusty conditions, and a heavy shoulder burn from paddling. I had to wait through lots of long lulls too and deal with the crowd. But believe me, compared to artificial waves, catching real waves in the living ocean is incomparable.
Aloha from Paradise,