Me, on my reedeemer wave (bud foto)

Took the time on Friday, and came up empty. However, I hoped Saturday would be a different story. It was.

The buoys were still real funky, showing swell size, but very short period. I was still optimistic that Pat's forecast was accurate.

Did the predawn patrol at 5:30. The surf looked small, with a remnant head-high north swell and rising west under slightly choppy conditions. It wasn't looking too good, but I dove in anyway.

Went out with this Santa Cruz local who apparently charged some good stuff during his visit. We shared small barrels in the dark, until daylight arrived along with the crowds.

A whole slew of people came into the lineup, including legendary bodyboarder Jack "The Ripper" Lindholm. He was in fine form, catching tons of waves and just taking them to pieces with his patented dropknee style.

Some kids were charging the surf real hard. I was put off by their impetuous 'tudes, but there was no denying that they had the skills. Many times, they took off way too deep and got blasted. Still, I give them credit for having some large balls.

Of course, all my boys arrived soon after, and quickly got reacquainted with the intricacies of Pipeline. Buddy got some good ones, including some long closeouts at Backdoor. Rich, who I didn't realize was a one time Pipe regular, started getting the bug again for the wave.

Unfortunately, it didn't last too long for Rich. After catching one of my own, I glanced up and saw Rich going over, embedded in the lip, while his board spun and fluttered in the air. Rich came up to find his board neatly snapped in half. End of session for Rich.

Makani also came out and buzzed the inside, snagging some good ones. Towards the end of the sesh, I took a pic of him inside a nice barrel, which he easily (for him) made.

Though few and far between, I did manage a few great waves. Had a golden opportunity on one, taking off early with a good angle trim. However, my natural safety instinct made me skirt around the lip, vice under it. Got to the shoulder, but regretted not pulling in.

Redeemed myself a little bit later in the sesh. Waited forever for a west peak, and was rewarded with a long barrel. Got pinched at the very very end, but it was worth the four or five seconds of scenery undercover.

Wished it was a little bigger and way less crowded. But in hindsight, except for Rich's snapped board it was a good session.

More pics...

Jack the Ripper, taking off through the flotsam and jetsam

Me doing my patented straighten off maneuver (bud foto)

Me again, compressing on the takeoff (bud foto)

Zoom in on my reedeeming wave (bud foto)

Aloha from Paradise,