Exit Wounds -- 7/18/01

Me, taking off on a medium-sized set (Buddy foto)

My summer doldrums were finally to be relieved in a big way. Because I missed the peak of the previous swell, I vowed not to miss the next one. The forecast called for a new swell to peak on Wednesday out of the SSW, so I set my crosshairs on the Westside.

After cutting out of work for some required PT (physical training), I headed west to meet up with Buddy and Rich who were already scoping out the area. Passing by some of the more popular spots, I could see that there was indeed swell, albeit a bit inconsistent and windy.

I arrived at the “Tents” parking lot with Buddy and Rich already standing by. Given the empty lineup, we quickly made the decision to go for it.

Sets were pretty solid, maybe double-overhead, with long, winding walls wrapping diagonally across the jagged, lava shoreline. The wind was surprisingly firm and onshore--very unusual for the place.

Right off the bat, I scored two very good waves on my bodyboard. On my first wave, I rode for I’d guess around 250 yards. I went so far, in fact, that I scrambled on the rocks and jogged back for what seemed like an eternity. The second one was a fun, steep takeoff which eventually closed out.

On that, Buddy said that I pulled a cutback right into this surfer’s face. I can honestly say that I have no recollection of seeing anyone around. I was just flowing with the wave.

Rich and Buddy snagged a few good ones themselves. Rich was a bit unsure of where to sit, but eventually got some good ones. Buddy got some steep ones, sometimes getting caught behind the peak, sometimes making it, throwing some big fans.

Buddy, trying to get around the section

The surf was quite inconsistent, but when it came it oftentimes caught us inside. Some of these waves were easily double-overhead. The wind slashed them up and crumbled them, but still, it was fun being in some power again.

Eventually, Makani and Fabian came out and joined us. Fabian, like me, is a bodyboarder turned surfer (but he shortboards). He rides really well and caught some good ones. Makani, well, he’s just a freak. Although he was bogged a bit by a sore ankle, he still managed to throw some serious fans.

Eventually, we decided to call it a day. The surf was a bit too inconsistent for us, and we had to bail anyway.

Makani took his own, very sketchy rockdance exit route, and Fabian followed. Buddy got to the flat reef with ease, but while guiding his brother in, he got pushed right upon the sharp coral and cut his hand and knee. Ouch!

After a long wait trying to catch something in, I finally dialed into a decent one. Makani showed me his exit door, and I very warily followed his directions. Any swell that came in would have turned me into mincemeat, but Makani lead me safely through.

This was the biggest surf that I’ve enjoyed this summer. Although, it wasn’t epic, it was still fun. Bummer that Buddy had to get those “exit wounds” but such is life.

Fabian on a set wave (1 of 2)

Fabian making it (2 of 2)

Buddy, taking off late

Me getting closed out on one

Aloha from Paradise,