Bully -- 8/10/01
Although I had the Friday off, I ended up working most of the morning. Had to get wet so I made a run to Diamond Head. I allotted myself one hour before having to head in for an afternoon meeting.
Surf was surprisingly good, with some overhead windswell action. It was blowing at about 15-30 mph, but there still some clean peaks to be had. The crowd was light, so I was stoked. Across the channel, the windsurfers were having a field day in optimum conditions for them.
For a change, I decided to dust off my “bullyboard”, a big bodyboard originally intended to ride tandem with my daughter. It’s super wide and is actually quite fun to use.
Even though there were maybe a half dozen surfers out there, I sat deep and caught lots of waves. Don’t want to say that I was the bully out there, but I got whatever I wanted. Guess the others were unfamiliar with the lineup or content to sit on the inside (or both).
Had one really good lip where I launched an air rollo. Other than that, I just had some fun dropping in on some steep peaks and letting my rail slide out on faux cutbacks.
Ended up staying a bit longer than I expected, so I had to run up the Diamond Head trail and quickly put away my things. Ended up grabbing a Jamba Juice and just making it to my briefing. Worked on the brief while others were talking, and delivered my portion in the nick of time, flawlessly.
I guess being the bully builds confidence. Think I should surf more often before work. ;-)
Aloha from Paradise,