Calculations -- 9/29/01
Forecast didn't look that great. Longshot tiny swells were expected on both the north and south sides of the island. After much studying of buoy report numbers and forecasts on the Internet, I decided that the south would be the safest bet. Last week's strikeout on the north was the swing vote in my mind.
Decided to reconnect with my bodyboard. After watching Justin rip last week, I actually felt a touch of jealousy. Think I subconsciously wanted to one-up him. Silly, but probably true.
Surf was fair and unspectacular at Lighthouse, but some decent waves could be had. Scanning the horizon, I watched for the odd sets to arrive while analyzing how the sideshore windswell would combine or null the waves. Probably did millions of calculations in my head, trying to figure out how and where the waves would break.
At that point I realized that no matter how much scientific data is available, the art of catching waves would probably remain completely in the hands of experienced waveriders. Only through hundreds of sessions collecting empirical data can one really understand and feel the ocean and its idiosyncrasies. It actually was a soothing awareness.
Caught some fun ones: a neat coverup, an overhead set, even an aerial. Definitely a fun surf. Still, I couldn't wait until the next really big swell. Better check the Internet again and find out.
Aloha from Paradise,