Torn -- 11/10/01

One of our local friends tagging a nice one

Dawned it to Laniakea with Buddy. Because my longboard had two buckles, I decided to let it rest and heal (maybe I'll have to reglass it--still deciding). So despite not so optimal bodyboarding condition, I sponged it.

Surf was an inconsistent 2-4' Haw'n (couple feet overhead on the sets) out of the WNW, somewhat choppy with an unusual (for Laniakea) and firm cross-swell coming in from the north.

Because of the direction of the swell, the lineup was distinctly broken into several peaks. On the far outside, Holtons was kicking in the double-overhead range. However, the wave was just a big drop with no wall to work on. The outside Laniakea peak looked good, but petered out quickly and did not connect through. The middle Laniakea peak, though quite small (compared to Holtons), offered some of the best quality waves, with a workable wall that jacked and threw on the inside.

Buddy got some nice rides, buzzing between the Laniakea peaks, mostly the middle one. I started off at the outside peak, but eventually followed Buddy's lead and got some fun ones in the middle.

I was torn because I wanted to chase the big peaks at Holtons, but I knew from past experience that it just wouldn't work for me. I actually got a few hollow ones that made me feel better about my choice of staying on the inside. However, I still felt torn.

Aloha from Paradise,