SURF OBSERVATIONS
Profiling for Tom -- 11/17/01


Backdoor was smoking!

Hooked up again with Buddy, Rich and visiting alt.surfer Tom (aka "tdsurf"). After a long assessment of the conditions at the Beach Park, it was obvious that Tom wanted to get some footage of the Pipe/Backdoor area, which was doing well in the declining surf.

Me and Rich decided to head into the fray while Buddy opted to hit Rocky Point, partially to save his brand new stick from potential destruction on its first day of use.

Pipe and Backdoor had some serious barrels, enticing us with perfection. However, the crowd made the waves much less appealing. Gotta admit that part of my motivation for going out there was purely from a "photo slut" standpoint.

When I got out, I lucked into a really nice one. Took off at the peak and had to turn laterally across the fall line to stay ahead of the pitching lip. Ended up sketching a bottom turn just inside the falling lip, then racing ahead of the tube and out onto the shoulder. Not really barreled, but I definitely had an awareness of being in the hook.

In quick time, I snagged a small Backdoor wave that shut down on the inside reef. The lip was too enticing as I launched a "small-kine" air over the shelf.

After that, I was pretty much barred from the waves (actually, I floundered like the kook I am). Some top dogs were out catching all the best waves, including Sunny, Kahea and Dino.

Sunny got an exceptional barrel at Backdoor. Having caught the wave before, I had the perfect view to watch him pull in deep, and emerge unscathed. However, as he came out, he obviously pointed his board straight for me, playing chicken. I didnít flinch, and ducked only when I had to at the base of the wave. He came within a few inches of my face as he raced by.

Later on, I talked to longboarder Dino, who got burned by Sunny on that very wave. Dino mentioned that he got the opportunity to burn him and did so. Sunny was pissed, but if you dish it out, you better be willing to take it. Of course, I wouldnít retaliate at Sunny.

Afterwards, Rich and I decided to chase down Buddy further north. Good thing we went when we did--entering the water was JBG, Joel Tudor and Brucie. No more waves for anyone else.

The waves near Rockies were actually pretty good. Buddy said that it was grinding earlier.

After fooling around for a while taking off on semi-closeouts, I decided to call it a day. Just then, I saw Tom in the lineup, fresh from shooting and eager to catch waves. I had to apologize for bailing, but it was time. We said our goodbyes and I told him Iíd see him online.

Hope to see the video soon. Iím such a photo slut! In any case, it was really nice hooking up with Tom, and look forward to hooking up with him again (camera or no).

Here it is! Thanks Tom!

Aloha from Paradise,


stickman


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