Perfect Thanks -- 11/22/01
My wifey gave me the green light for a short, Thanksgiving Day session. It was a good thing too, since we were planning a double feast that day and I'd need all the workout I could get to stay reasonably fit.
Was the first one out at Pipeline well before dark, riding my bodyboard. Swell was in the fun range, maybe about 3-5' Haw'n, with ultra glassy, no wind conditions.
Caught a few really nice walls at Pipe before the crowd came out and overran the place. I had one memorable wave where I just committed to pulling in (unlike most of the time where I bank around the lip). My transition from vertical drop to horizontal trim was shaky at best, losing lots of kinetic energy in the process. Ended up stalling in the barrel and getting pitched over the falls on the inside of the tube. Thankfully, I landed on a cushion of whitewater and only slightly grazed the reef.
After an hour of fun, I went in, with intent on hooking up with Buddy and Rich. Amazingly, they just so happened to be pulling out of the Beach Park parking and went to check out Backyards.
They said it was looking decent, so drove up the coast and hooked up with the boys, along with Syril and his friend Shariff.
Man, when I paddled out, I could not believe what I was seeing. The waves were absolutely flawless glass, peeling down the line in fairly regular intervals.
It was pristine
It was a little tricky finding the right takeoff spot, but we managed a few serious worm-burners. The waves were so fast for me (on my bodyboard) that I never broke trim on any wave I took off on. They were just speed runs on these pristine walls.
I only had a little while to spare, so I caught a few sizzlers, cautiously pulling out and not taking on any of the sections. Still had a great time.
Worked my way in and got slammed when I stupidly tried to do a lip-launch on a small Sunset Point wave. Damn, that place has some power!
Ended up eating too much on Turkey Day, but by then I had already given thanks for health, family and friends, and a sweet Thanskgiving session.
You had to be real fast...
Aloha from Paradise,