"Beach Closed"

Drove to the North Shore--it was big and tossing with radical, heaving sections. Drove to Mokuleia--it was ugly and blown. Drove all the way down the northeast route of Kam Highway--wasn't familiar with the spots and it looked kinda small anyway.

In desperation, I finally drove to a secret spot on the northeast side. It was absolutely firing, with blue water, sunshine, clean offshores and nobody out!!! I threw on my gear and ran. When I reached the gate I found that the beach was closed due to high surf. F#%! The people around there are intolerant of lawbreakers, so I reluctantly turned around.

Rather than check out a nearby possible spot, I decided to shine it. Four hours of driving and checking out spots and I got squat. It was time to do my honeydo's anyway. I can't even remember the last time I went to surf and didn't even get wet.

Epilogue: Later that day, Buddy called and said that the spot that I skipped was all-time, complete with surf mag photogs and pros galore. I didn't have to hear that.

Aloha from Paradise,