Restoked -- 1/21/02
For some reason, since prepping for and entering the bodyboarding contest, I couldn't regain that stoke of just enjoying the surf. Practice surfing is not necessarily fun and enjoyable, and since the contest, I hadn't really had a truly enjoyable session. I was due.
Went bodyboarding at Laniakea in the early morn, and found it to be fairly empty and small. However, conditions were excellent with no wind and a pulsing swell coming in from the northeast.
I didn't have any standout waves, but got some neat rides, including a really nice bowl on the peak. I had one of those sessions where, despite the crowd, I was choosing waves at will and riding them through.
After all the anxiety from entering the contest, and the poor waves that followed, it's ironic that it took a small day at Lani's to get me rejuvenated and stoked again.
Aloha from Paradise,