Pristine -- 3/16/02
Small surf on Saturday with no wind? Or big surf on Sunday with stiff onshores? What a dilemma. A cold front was forecast to come through on Saturday afternoon, expected to change the weather drastically. I had only one morning to surf. What to do?
Noticing a small bump on the buoys Friday night, I decided to try my luck early Saturday morn. Emailed the crew to let them know my intentions, then settled down for a long winter's nap.
Raced out in the early morning darkness and found that it was only about head-high at most places. The most promising break seemed to be Rocky Point. After notifying Buddy and Rich, I paddled out there.
Surf was about 2 to an occasional 4 feet (Haw'n), with clear skies and ultra-calm conditions. It was the idyllic vision of paradise, and we were on it.
I was chasing the north walls that swung out from Sunset Beach and peeled down towards Ehukai. Snagged a few really nice ones that lined up all the way to the inside shallows of the flat reef. Got a few closeout tubelets and launched quite a few el rollos (these are becoming more few and far-between for this old salt).
Both Buddy and Rich were ripping, as usual. Rich had a hard time of it in the start, but managed a few long ones, weaving around the bobbing masses. Buddy got small barrels and good snaps (one that I hope to have captured on celluloid).
Another bro, Syril, was in the water. He vibed me early on when he came out by splashing me while I was taking off on one. I didnít recognize him, so I played it cool, paddling right next to him in semi-mock defiance. We had a good laugh together after he "revealed" himself.
This set the tone for me. I started fooling around out there in the small surf. First I plotted to derail Rich's already bad wave judgment by flinging my bodyboard at him--it recoiled just before hitting his head mid-ride with a jerk of my leash. Unfortunately, Rich kept riding. I'll get him next time. :-)
Syril played the photo slut, and rightfully so. He took off on some really nice waves, pulling into some crystalline barrels. The lighting was just so fine. I hope the shot I took of him comes out--I know he hopes so too.
Anyway, just another pristine day in paradise.
Aloha from Paradise,