SURF OBSERVATIONS
Neckache -- 4/7/02


It was tiny and junky

Work has been stressful to the point of affecting my body. I started getting aches and pains for no reason at all, and even could feel my hair falling out (figuratively). I needed to regroup and reenergize myself. I needed to surf!

Surf was small and junky on Saturday, but it didnít matter. Tiny, head-high Pipeline was the call with coworker and fellow sponger Justin.

Unfortunately, I had this wicked pain right in the nape of my neck on the spine. I couldn't turn my head at all, and any jarring movement, even duckdiving, was painful. I was miserable.

Of course, this all affected my bodyboarding. I was going straight, pearling, just kooking out big time. I just could not enjoy the session at all and ended up cutting it short.

There was an amateur contest going on over the sandbar at Ehukai and for a fleeting moment I thought of entering before my neck reminded me that I'm an old(er) man. So I ended up shooting some lifestyle beach scenes.

For me, surfing and bodyboarding are my outlets to recover from the stressful world. Not being able to participate due to that very stress I'm trying to get relief from is a vicious circle that I have to break. Goddamn pain in the neck I tell you!


Justin made the most of the conditions


Waiting to play


A competitor throws a reverse during his heat


Bodyboards are fun on the sand too

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman

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