Inside Cliffs

Diamond Head was once again the call. However, Lighthouse wasn’t picking up the swell, so I wandered over to Cliffs for some action there. Mostly shoulder-high stuff, with some long, choppy sections afforded by the mostly windswell.

Had much better positioning on this session, snagging a few really long rides on my longboard. Nothing exceptional; just a fun go-out.

Midway through, I saw my friend John Cater, wearing this bright orange helmet. When I grow up, I want to be surfing at 70 just like John. He has a zest for life that we all should aspire to.

Anyway, I was hoping to get a picture of John surfing, but he caught a really nice set wave, and just took it all the way in. Essentially, it was a one wave session for him, but he was stoked to get such a good ride, that he figured he’d go in--he had to run to work anyway.

I was hanging outside, just waiting for him to paddle back out. Finally, I realized he went in, so I followed soon after.

Low expectations kept me grounded and made my session at Cliffs that much more enjoyable despite the smallish waves.

Aloha from Paradise,