Slide Ass -- 8/3/02
Continuing our saga of what is fast becoming the worst surf summer in memory, we once again headed out to, you guessed it--Diamond Head.
Had to do something different for a change, so I decided to dust off my old “bullyboard,” an oversized bodyboard that I originally intended to tandem ride with my daughter. It has actually turned into a fun alternative vehicle for me to ride.
Waves were chest-high windswell, with messy faces that surprisingly lined up quite nicely.
Buddy and Rich came out and they proceeded to once again shralp the waves. Buddy showed off his modified stick, complete with a reglassed snub nose due to not one but two bounces off the reef. His now 5'10" board (formerly 6'1") seems to have suffered no ill effects, with him still ripping regardless. Maybe extra inches are overrated.
I myself was having a blast with the bullyboard. During rides, I purposely released the rail, sliding out sideways, semi out of control. Rabbit Kekai used to say they used to “slide ass” on their hot curl boards. That’s exactly what I was doing on my board--a controlled slide just having fun in the marginal surf.
Actually the surf wasn’t all that bad. In fact, I managed to snag several rollos and even a coverup. It was really fun. Guess going with low expectations really helps the stoke factor when it’s a little better than anticipated.
Went home happy for a change. Sliding ass is good fun.