One if by Land and Two if by Sea -- 8/25/02
The forecast called for swell on all shores on the weekend. I was amped! Given the 5-6 feet, 14-17 second buoy readings on buoy #1, I rolled the dice and headed out to the Country at 4:30 AM.
Crap. Surf was only waist-high at best. So I did a 180 and zoomed back to Town. Essentially drove 75 miles to surf five miles from my house.
Went out to Lighthouse to catch a short session on my bodyboard. The plan was for me to call Buddy back just in case his friend could hook us up on his boat.
Had a pretty fun session with Cameron, snagging some solid head-high peaks, trimming and carving, and even scoring one veranda. Came in after about an hour to find out the scoops.
Funnish Diamond Head
Green light! Buddy's friend Lance was heading out to a secret spot on the South Shore with his boat. I also got the green light from my ever-patient wifey, so after making a pit stop at Leonard's bakery for some malasadas, I hightailed it to the dock.
Got there at the same time as Buddy and Rich and Makani. The crew was back together. In just a short time, Lance joined us on his 14' Livingston. Really nice guy.
Here I am, trying to ride Makani's skateboard (Bud foto)
We motored out for quite a ways until we got to this outer reef. If we paddled out, it would have taken a very long time and would have killed our arms off. As it was, we just hopped off the boat, directly into the lineup.
"You like squid luau?" (Bud foto)
The wave was exclusively a left. I say this because the reef was ultra craggy, with fingers of coral heads sticking out of the water. It looked pretty sketchy.
The wave was actually really fun. Easy takeoff that turned into a nice, walling raceway section in the middle, then opened up to a softer inside section, and finally rolling through a second minefield of jutting coral. If you were lucky, you could snag a pretty long ride--40 plus yards.
Lance went back to the dock to pick up another friend, while our crew started going for it, taking turns on the fairly consistent shoulder-to-head-high sets. It was a blast.
Eventually, Lance and his friend El joined us. We six were the only surfers for as far as the eye could see.
In the three hours we were out, everyone caught their fair share of waves, despite the slightly inconsistent conditions. The wave was fully rippable, and the boys were taking it to pieces.
As for myself, I was having a field day. After getting somewhat familiar with the wave, I started taking off deeper and deeper, sitting behind the coral heads, even going though some of it on takeoff. The race section was really nice when it jacked and walled up.
The coral heads were intimidating (Bud foto)
Buddy and I ended up taking a lot of pictures with our disposable cameras (he shot his entire roll of 27!).
Eventually, another boat came by and their crew of three joined us. By that time, we were satiated and had to go, so we pulled anchor and headed back to the dock.
Upon arriving back at the dock we were greeted by the ever-vigilant Coast Guard doing random spot checks. It was an inconvenience, but Lance showed them that all his gear was in order. Talked story with them, and we discussed the latest lost at sea guy who went out by himself with just a cell phone for communication--sad but stupid. Unfortunately, it was an all too common tale. Anyway, Lance thankfully passed the inspection, so we cleaned up and all headed our own ways.
What a day! 1: Driving forever, ending up back in Town for some fun stuff at Diamond Head. 2: Getting a boat ride out to a secret spot and scoring with a few bros. Definitely preferred two by sea.
Rich spanks one while Makani shoots from the shoulder
Aloha from Paradise,