Happy at Holtons -- 9/28/02
Since the surf didn't arrive the day before, I figured the next day would be a shoe-in for some decent surf. The buoys finally came up the night before at 6 PM--six foot, 17 seconds. Very encouraging. So I decided to hit the predawn patrol for the Country.
Surf report at 5:30 AM on Saturday: Laniakea was 1-3'; Pipeline was 1-2'; Rocky Point was 1-3'. Bummer.
Anticipating a NW swell, I decided to hit our tried and true Laniakea. The decision was based partly because I had my longboard and knew I could function out there. However, paddling out, I found that it just wasn't happening. The swell seemed to have a much more westerly component than expected, which tends to section off Lanis.
Still, I figured I'd try and persevere, trying to make the most of the situation. Caught a few quick walls, but they were mediocre at best.
I noticed that there was a larger than normal crowd out at Holtons, so I finally decided to paddle up north and give that spot a shot.
Man, I was really missing out. Holtons is usually nothing more than a big drop with no shoulder. However, the acute westerly swell direction was making for some decent, zippy and sizeable walls. I was awestruck.
Paddled outside and deep and within a few minutes scored my ride of the session. A huge peak reared up from outside Jockos, tapering out towards Laniakea and it had my name written all over it.
I paddled further outside, whipped around, then stared way down to a deep trough. As I was getting to my feet, the wave jacked up and concaved out. Rather than angle straight down, I turned the board to the right as the board flapped down the face. Used all the rocker to avoid pearling.
Once I made the drop, I turned the board towards the channel. I vividly remember a deep, thundering sound and presence behind me as the whitewater exploded behind me. Rode the wall for quite a while before the wave closed out. Of course, I had to straighten out and got a tumble, but boy was I stoked!
Paddled back out and snagged several really good walls, s-turning all the way to the channel. But it was a bit inconsistent and turned really crowded.
Went in to Laniakea to search for the Williams brothers, but couldn't find them. Found out later that they scored epic Rocky Point. Guess it got better later in the morning.
Came in stoked with catching a few bombs. Man, I was happy at Holtons.
Aloha from Paradise,