Overslept -- 10/6/02
Went to bed late intending to drive out to the North Shore. Ended up oversleeping big time.
Instead decided to shoot out to Town and surf Diamond Head. Checked out the HASA surf contest at Cliffs and talked story with Wendell Aoki and China Uemura.
Shot down to the walkway and found Buddy, who also overslept, prepping to go out. We were on it.
Surf was surprisingly decent, with overhead peaks coming in from the easterly windswell. There was a bit of a crowd, but most were the regular crew.
The swell direction made the waves come in at an acute angle--so much so that on one wave, I went right, but still ended up nearer to shore like I went left.
Caught one good wave on which I launched a roll off of (after putting on the brakes to stall for the lip), but nothing much more than that. Still it was pretty fun.
Btw, found out later that the North Shore was firing. :-(
Aloha from Paradise,