Angular Dispersion -- 10/11/02

Soft and crowded

My daughter had a class picnic, so I tagged along to Ala Moana Beach Park. Just so happen to coincide with one of our last summer south swells.

After finding a proper time to excuse myself, I made the long paddle out to Big Lefts/Americas. Early in the morning, it looked like there were a few bombs, but it seemed to have settled down by the time I got out.

Although the swell was southwesterly, it seemed like the waves were coming in from the south or even southeasterly direction. I think the reason was that the brunt of the swell was missing Hawaii to the east, and we were only getting the fringes. Angular dispersion is what the meteorologists were calling it.

The surf was inconsistent and a bit soft. Despite that, the crowd was pretty thick, with a variety of surf vehicles littering the lineup.

Stayed out only a little while and managed a few long rides, going full trim most of the way. The heavy crowd and hunger for lunch coerced me to come in. Oh well, at least I got wet and learned about a little bit of geometry.

Aloha from Paradise,