Not Quite Ready -- 10/13/02
Headed off for the North Shore, hoping to rendezvous with the projected northwest swell. Unfortunately, the predawn light showed nothing but waist-high dribble. Bummers.
After sitting on the beach contemplating if it was even worth paddling out, I decided to make a go for it.
As morning arrived, the swell started filling in, building up to a few inconsistent five footers (Haw'n scale). However, the steep shoreline at Pipe made for funky backwash action. The crowd didn't help either, with everyone and their brother in the lineup expecting the swell.
Heard this semi-comedic statement by this one older, tattooed guy. As he took off on the shoulder, he yelled, "Somebody's going to get dropped in on!" Guess admitting it up front makes it easier to burn people.
I got a few fun ones on my bodyboard, but missed out on the good sets. I was in position for some big closeouts at both Backdoor and Off the Wall, but I couldn't get myself to pull in. Also wrenched my neck doing a Hawaiian pull-out. Obviously, I'm not quite ready for the bigger waves of winter.
Did snap a few photos of some bodyboarders who were charging and scoring some tube time. Conditions were sweet, with glassy, no wind conditions.
Aloha from Paradise,