Date: November 30, 2002
Words: After a 20 day pause from surfing due to illness/stress/work, I finally got back into the water. My weakened state left me far from being prepared for powerful surf, so I chose to hit the Westside to catch some wrap from the big north pelting the island. Makaha was awash with some waves breaking from the Point all the way to Klausmeyers. The inside was a crumbly mess with surprising onshores jumbling the water surface. Pass.
Went out to Maili instead, where it was much smaller and more manageable. Caught a bunch of shaky lefts on my longboard--just didn't seem to have my sea legs. Eventually, I worked back into the groove and had some fun, making a few OK backside turns around the reef shelf.
My digital camera was accidentally set to movie mode, so I got a couple of long MPG files of dangling camera action. Actually managed to salvage a few tiny frame grabs that were somewhat representative of the day.
Looking forward to getting back into it full-force so that I can take off my Thanksgiving winter coat.
World Surf Day 2002, #2? I completely forgot that it was this weekend. Just as well.
Aloha from Paradise,