Me on a fun-sized one (Bud foto)
Date: January 3, 2003
Words: After scouring the western coastline looking for a decent spot, we decided upon "Stinky's" (fake name). It's a very fickle place with a dangerous shoreline that keeps the lineup empty. It was only me, Buddy and his friend Liam out, except for a bodyboarder who joined us for a little while.
Expecting the incoming front to turn the winds southwest sometime in the morning, we went out fast to get it while it was good. It was bombing outside in the dawn, but we anticipated that it would settle down with the outgoing tide. I got worked trying to get out, first getting rolled (and scraped up) on the shoreline reef, then having to duckdive an extra long set.
Liam did well, paddling into a lot of waves. Originally from New York, he had some interesting tales from the Right Coast. Buddy got a lot too, including one really good closeout barrel. I tried to be patient and got some really nice walls and bowls. Got covered up a couple of times too.
Really funny watching people drive by to check out the action, then leave. It was very obvious that most didn't know how to et in/out of the water at this spot--very intimidating, even for me.
One concern for all of us during the session was the amount of shoreline bystanders with questionable intent. We made it a point to park very strategically and maintained a vigilant watch of our vehicles throughout.
Although the surf size dwindled a bit through the session, the surf quality improved, with waves lining up nicely on occasion. The winds, which we thought were going to quickly turn onshore, ended up staying calm throughout our session, with a hint of onshores coming in only on the tail end.
It was really hard to leave the lineup absolutely empty with such quality waves, but that is exactly what we did. Lots of honeydos and obligations for us all. Still, we got it while it was good, with no wind at all.
Aloha from Paradise,